Canon stopped releasing whatever FoCal needs to make it fully automatic on some bodies. Turn your furnace fan off and make sure no else is walking around the house. I think factory is 1.5 seconds? I can't remember off hand. Also I believe you can extend the time after the mirror lifts and takes the shot to reduce vibration. I have sturdy tripod and when I change the MFA values on the laptop I am very careful not to cause any movement so I haven't had any issues. I want to run the aperture test as well to see what it thinks is the sharpest aperture on my 500II. I need to set down with this again one day and try to figure out if I was ding something wrong I guess. What good is that? Blurry vs blurry is a little difficult to decipher. It seems to do ok, but what I don't like is when working on a camera body that it can't automatically adjust it displays blurry test images and then ask me to decide if it's sharper than the previous blurry image. I purchased Focal Pro last fall and have used it a few times to calibrate a couple lenses. FoCal lists a few other light sources to avoid. Avoid fluorescent lights because they flicker.

I purchased two studio CFL's from a photo store but here is some info on them in general if you want to get them at Home Depot. Cost a little up front but long with the Studio CFL's I have a kit ready to go when I need it. įoCal also warns against using targets printed using a laser printer. Most other Canon documents discuss either one or the other. First time it talks about the distance you mostly shoot (includes at location) or 50X. I also try to have as much natural daylight fall on the target if I can but that is not always easy to do.Ĭanon's newest and most elaborate document. Since I shoot outdoors most often I light the target using two daylight balanced studio CFL's.

FoCal tells me what final number is and the results are repeatable. I always second guessed my results using other methods. It is more accurate for me because I don't have to make the final decision. If you are going to buy Focal then I would suggest the more expensive Pro version because the cheaper one has some limitations.įor one thing the less expensive version won't MFA focal lengths of 400mm or greater. Major problem with it is achieving the proper test environment with suitable lighting. Only method I use and I tried them all.įocal is no more accurate than manual methods but it can be faster to get the desired result. Has anyone used Reikan FoCal Pro Focus Calibration Software or any other Focus Calibration Software?

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